SKETCH OF NORTH INDOCHINA- Day 3: 100325- BaBe Lake, Ban Gioc Falls, Cao Bang

The morning of BaBe Lake is very cold and little misty. After a cold shower and nice home made pancake with natural honey breakfast, we have to said good bye to our ‘family member’. The morning view of the padi file is so green and fresh which is keep hunting our memory card…. Hahahhaha

After walk about 1km, we reach the jetty. We took small boat to opposite side to get back into bus and proceed to Cao Bang.

We reach Cao Bang city about 1pm to had lunch. Then proceed to Ban Gioc Falls.

The geography along the way to Ban Gioc Falls is same like GuangXi Province of China. The hills, padi field provide different scene than BaBe Lake.

After 3 hours drive up and down the hills, we reached. Ban Gioc Falls (China border side is call Detian Fall德天瀑布 ) is waterfall on the Quy Xuan River straddling the China- Vietnam border, located in in the Karst hills of Daxing County in the Chongzuo prefecture of Guangxi Province, on the Chinese side, and in the district of Trung Khanh, Cao Bằng province on the Vietnamese side, 272 km north of Hanoi.

The waterfall falls thirty meters. It is separated into three falls by rocks and trees. It is currently the 4th largest waterfall along a national border after Iguazu Falls, Victoria Falls, and Niagara Falls.

Although dry season hit this area, the water still flowing on the fall. Clear water and cold air keep us fresh after long journey from BaBe Lake. It is worth to traveling so long hours after see the nice scenery on the falls and along the journey.

Most exciting incidents is the whole city is black out on that night while we going for sleep. It is happen twice and left only lights from cars and motorbike.

SKETCH OF NORTH INDOCHINA- Day 2: 100324-Hanoi, BaBe Lake

After a simple breakfast in Hotel, we start today journey to the north side of Vietnam. The most exciting events is having local French Toast with local dish like meat and egg with parsley leaf. If you see the appearance, this French toast is just like ordinary bread, but if you put in your mouth, the crunchy surface, soft texture of the inner toast and the fragrance form the parsley and the taste from the minched pork meat meet up to be a super delicious bread.

After 7 hours driving, we reach the Nang River jetty about 3pm. The scenery along the river cruise to the Tay Village beside the Ba Be Lake is amazing. Padi field, bamboo stalks, buffalo, famer, fisherman, natural hills, lake water add up to be a nice scenery. It is beautiful than Gui Lin of China.

Ba Bể National Park is located in Bac Kan Province, about 240 kilometers north of Hanoi. Ba Bể Lake (Vietnamese: Ho Ba Bê, Ba Bê meaning "Three Lakes" in the local Tay language) is the largest natural fresh water lake, stretching about 8 kilometers in the north-south direction.

After 30 minutes cruising, we flow into a cave. The cave is up to 50 meters high and about 300 meters long. It is inhabited by a population of 5 to 10 000 bats belonging to 18 species. The cold wind start to blow when we trekking inside the cave. And Nice sunset view is start to catch our eye when we past the limestone cave.

Now Babe Lake is a part of the Ba Bể National Park was established in 1992, it covers an area of 100.48 km².

The Tay village is built on the cliff. The delta of the lake is use for plantation for padi and vegetable. Most of the resident here is work as famer and fisherman. However, many houses are convert into homestay. Their condition is good as mosquito net, hot shower is well equip. The family members are very friendly, although they not very rich but they are happier than city people. It makes me think again, should I work until sacrifice my family? This question is always rising on my mind when I enjoy the simple but comfortable life without internet and television.

After dinner, we have chat between each other include Sam. He told me that I look like his friend… hahahhaa I never notice that Panda is so common in appearance.

The night in BaBe Lake is very cold. Natural air conditional flow from five direction into your body. The gap on the wooden floor is good for ventilation. I thought I couldn’t sleep in such place without air cond but the fact is I slept so well that night with flows of fresh air.

SKETCH OF NORTH INDOCHINA- Day 1: 100323-Hanoi

After a long journey of waiting cause by delay of Air Asia, 10pax of panda group arrived at NoiBai(Hanoi) International Airport about 8.30am. Noi Bai is 28km away from Hanoi town. The airport equal size to Penang airport where separated to 2 side, right side for domestic and left side for international. The ludgage transfer is extremely slow where we wait there nearly 45minutes to clear custom and collect all ludgage.

Sam- Hanoi tour guide is waiting for us on arrival hall. He is a smart and fluent in English. This is my first impression for Sam.

OMG, I just notice my backpack is tearing when reach the bus, so no choice to get new one later. Hahaha may be it just excuse to buy new backpack.

Hanoi city is not yet fully develop, the buildings mostly are tall but slim. The door, window, arch is influence by French colonial style. Government building is paint with yellow(influence by French) but house is decorate with very contrast color. The downtown of Hanoi is same as what we seen in movie during Vietnam war. Narrow street, high rise(3 floor)building… The electricity wire is mess on the pillar and floor full of dirt and water.

The first meal on Hanoi is Phor(pronounce as Pher, Vietnam noodle like Koay Teow). But me, SP, KK and CP dint take because it is beef soup noodle. Finally Sam able to found 1 stall opposite the restaurant selling chicken soup phor. It is a bit same like our old hawker stall, we have to sit on the small chair at the road side for the breakfast. It is special experience as we eat like locals. Hahaha

After breakfast, we went to Ho Tay(Westlake)’s Chua Tran Quoc(Temple to Protect the Nation). This temple is not so big but the inner of the main hall is full of the Buddhism status. The Buddhism in Vietnam is same as Chinese and all the wording use in the old temple is Chinese Han writing. It is because before the French reach Vietnam, they following the writing, cultural, imperial palace as China. Chua Tran Quoc founded in the early sixth century during the Ly Dynasty, it was moved from next to the Red River to its current location in the early 17th century. In the front gardens stands a bodhi tree, taken from a cutting of the original tree, under which Buddha sat and achieved enlightenment.

Then we proceed to the Presidential Palace of Vietnam, was built between 1900 and 1906 to house the French Governor-General of Indochina. Like most French Colonial architecture, the palace is pointedly European- the only visual cues that it is located in Vietnam at all are mango trees growing on the grounds. The building is paint in striking yellow stands behind wrought iron gates flanked by sentry boxes. This building is not open for public, even stand nearby will be chase away by the guard.

Next to the President palace is Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum in front of the Ba Dinh Square. However, we only took photo in front because it is close after noon. Surrounded the Ba Dinh Square is Vietnam Government buildings which all in Yellow color, the old French style building.

Next to the HCM Mausoleum is the Chua Mot Cot(One Pillar Temple). This temple is build on top of 1 pillar on a lotus pond. Chua Mot Cot has become the symbol of Vietnamese rich culture and history. The pagoda was built in the reign of king Ly Thai Tong (1028-1054). According to legend, in his dream, in 1049, the king saw a vision of Phat Ba Quan Am(Kwan Yin, Goddess of Mercy). She led him to a shrine in the middle of a lotus pond. When he woke up, he consulted with his court and decided to replicate the shrine in his dream to dedicate it to Kwan Yin.

The most enjoy time is lunch at the old city center, a French style old building with traditional Vietnamese food. I prefer their spring roll so much, The fresh vege, pineapple, fried fish wrap with rice paper and eat with the sauce (with fish paste and vinegar).

After lunch, the next spot is Temple of Literature (Vietnamese: Văn Miếu (文廟)) or temple of Confucius in Vietnam. Although several Văn Miếu can be found throughout Vietnam, the most prominent and famous is that situated in the city of Hanoi, which also functioned as Vietnam's first university.

Then follow by the Hanoi Hilton/ Hao Lao or should said the jail for the American during the Vietnam War built by French to hostage the Viet politician prison.

The most exciting time coming by watching the Water Puppet show at Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. Although I can’t understand Vietnamese language but it is good to appreciate their cultural. The puppets are made out of wood and then lacquered. The shows are performed in a waist-deep pool. A large rod supports the puppet under the water and is used by the puppeteers, who are normally hidden behind a screen, to control them. Thus the puppets appear to be moving over the water. When the rice fields would flood, the villagers would entertain each other using this form of puppet play. It is amazing the performance can stand on the water for so long time for the show. So touch that they build this theatre to preserve their cultural.

The shopping place in Hanoi is just around the Water Puppet Theatre. Backpack, shoes is the hot item for shopping in Hanoi. However, it is not an easy place to bargain due to the language problem. For your info, NorthFace big backpack is 385k dong, Deuter small backpack is 220k dong.

The first dinner is at Viet Kitchen spring, an French style Vietnamese Cuisine. The environment is nice but food just so so.

北越掠影- Day 8: 100330:Hanoi河内

由于火车延迟一个小时,大伙必须以最快的速度完成洗刷,然后赶往机场.

基本上河内国际机场的出境处很小,但是全部的物品都以美金计算,价钱也比大马机场贵很多.与SAM度过了那么多天,当要离别时候竟然回依依不舍.期望可以再见到他.

除了SAM之外,还有9个一起大吃大喝了八天的伙伴们,因为你们,我才了解什么叫旅行,什么叫互相扶持,互相照顾.最难忘的是你们的欢笑声,让我每想起那八天都会笑容满面.

Ken: 我的老兄,你那为大家付出的精神值得我们的敬佩.因为你,我们才有那么丰富的旅程.

Doreen:谢谢你的萨龙巴斯和关怀.

Kim Lean:一个天生的模特儿,你被拍照的姿势是那么的自然.

大小米:我的好旅游伙伴,从2006年在云南之旅认识你们开始,我们一起走过了江南,北京和现在的越南.有你们在,旅程会变得更缤纷色彩.

SP和Step:我的摄影师,摸特儿,讲价代言人.谢谢你们在我不舒服时候给于的照顾.

CP: 对不起在旅途中叫你”Glo……”,很欣赏你那么潇洒的一面.更欣赏你逗趣的性格.谢谢你的咸酸甜.

Lee Lin: 全团唯一的摄像机的,里面隐藏了很多搞笑的短片.有机会请把它放Youtube,让大家又笑多几次.

最后要介绍团里最年轻的小熊猫,方年三十二,未婚……哈哈…..谢谢大家在我的脑海里烙下的美丽足迹.

北越掠影- Day 7: 100329: Sapa沙霸, Lao Cai老街

第一次在寒冷的气候下进驻没有暖气的酒店.虽然寒冷,但睡眠不足的我却可以一觉睡到天亮.睡醒后就狼吞虎咽的吃早餐,不知道是天气寒冷吧!从炒面,粥到面包没一样被放过,但最喜欢的还是牛油配法国面包.

从酒店徒步Cat Cat村不会很远.但一路上都有黑苗族妇女向游人兜售工艺品与毛遂自荐来当导游.由于早上的大雾,远处的梯田都被白茫茫的雾气笼罩.直到要到达Cat Cat村时才渐渐散去.一路上除了兜售工艺品的妇女,还有很多的小孩.原本以为小孩天真无邪,但是他们竟然对我们money.从他们居住环境看来,这儿的生活的确BacHa的少数民族好很多.但旅游的发展让这儿的儿童失去了天真的一面.当回来看照片时,Bak Ha 的小孩笑得最美丽,他们在物质上很穷,但心灵上却富有过任何一个小孩.

由于现在处于旱季,这儿的梯田还没播种.光秃秃的梯田层次分明,体现了另一种的自然美.

在山中的午餐是西式的三文治,法国面包配熏肉,起司与蔬菜,简单又可口的午餐让大伙吃得津津有味.回到沙霸市区又是自由购物的时间,因为亚航限制行李的重量,我尽量减少购物.说起购物,这儿的传统工艺品与中国少数民族很相似.由于几年去过云南,这儿的工艺品已经吸引不到我了.

在老街吃了晚餐,又是说再见的时候了.今天回河内的火车比昨天的小很多,以我的身型来说,它的确会将我卡在里面.

北越掠影- Day 6: 100328-Lao Cai老街, Bac Ha北河, Sapa沙霸

不管火车的床再怎么舒服,毕竟它行走时的快速振动影响了我的睡眠.火车越靠近老街,气温就越来越低.5.30早晨,大伙抵达老街车站,迎接我们的是一批批正在拉客的旅游业者.我们顺利在大门口与沙霸的接待者-邓先生联络.

老街市越南北部老街省省会城市,位于越南与中国边境线上,隔南溪河与中国云南省河口瑶族自治县毗邻.老街位于红河和南溪河的汇合处,东南距河内市260公里,为中越两国间交通要道.老街并不大,但是游客却很多.火车站很小,车站前是个停车场,四周都是单或双层店屋.

大伙在车站附近的餐厅吃了早餐后,一对法国夫妇加进我们前往北河周末市集. 北河周末市集越南花苗族的集中地.每个周末,来自周围的各民族都会积聚在北河镇进行买卖,相亲等.各民族的男女都会穿着传统服装做买卖或闲游.传统服装,米酒,饮食,手工艺品等琳琅满目.由于语言问题,他们多数以书写或展示纸钞来讲价.当我要购买当地的梅时,听到当地人交易价格为两公斤为二十万盾,但是对我们却说是一公斤二十万盾.所以导游交代最少减半才可以买.

在北河周末市集最重要是享受当地的传统买卖.虽然现在旅游的巨浪慢慢吞噬这里,但很多传统的交易仍然进行着如牲畜,狗肉,米酒的买卖就是只有当地人才去交易的.逛到一半时,一个苗族的年轻小伙子开始跟两个女的旅游伙伴搭讪,原来他要邂逅她们为他的女朋友.为了不要引起不必要的麻烦,女伴们骗他说他们已经结婚了.在市集物色对象是苗族人的传统习俗,虽然我们不能接受,但还是要尊重对方.

午餐后,我们前往市集附近的苗族与傣族村参观.一进苗族的家,迎接我们的是一群脸瘦皮黄的小男孩和到处乱钻的家禽.贫困的苗家只有一张象样的床和一个完全走色的彩色电.当走到厨房时候,看到了一幕最痛心的午餐,一家五口竟然一一包快熟面配白饭当午餐.虽然小孩门天真无邪的笑容伴随着我们,但是眼泪开始从眼框打滚而出.但是贫困并不减弱他们尊严,他们不象旅游区的小孩,到处乞讨金钱,但却布施天真无邪的笑容给我们.

以后如果到回那里,建议要带些有营养的食物,减少零食.

参观完毕后,大伙又被崎岖的山路折腾三小时才抵达沙霸. 沙霸是北越与中国云南交界的一个山中小城,海拔约1600米,气候凉爽多雾,在法国殖民时期是法国人的避暑胜地. 这里有许多少数民族包括黑苗、花苗、红苗、红瑶、白瑶……等,跟中国南方的少数民族相似.

沙霸有点象金马仑,是群山包围的小片平坦土地. 市镇拥有一座法殖时期的教堂,前面是售买工艺品的广场.广场的另一旁是沙霸旅游一条街,旅馆,酒吧,餐厅,旅行社占了多数的店面. 旅游一条街的上端是菜市场,新鲜蔬果,干粮杂货,传统食物应有尽有. 法殖时期的教堂两旁是水果与烧烤的驻地,再走几步就是售卖衣服,寒衣.背包的小档.若小的沙霸不需要任何的交通工具都可以走完.

在高山地区游玩最重要是放慢脚步,不然高原反应很快就会找上门.

北越掠影- Day 5: 100327- Halong Bay下龙湾, Hanoi河内, Lao Cai老街

一早醒来,发现厕所没有水,原来船上的用水都需要靠小船运载.从房间的小窗望出去,可以看到小船停泊在帆船旁正在输送洁净水.在船上享用早餐是件幸福的事,美味的法国面包,加上香味四溢的奶酪,培根等慢慢的送入大家的肠胃.

早餐后,大伙改乘舢舨去看外桃园.舢舨慢慢的划过天然洞穴,里面竟然是四面怀山的泻湖.由于电动船被禁止划入该区,里面只有我们的笑声与山上猿猴的啼声.现在正好是退潮,我们乘坐的10人大舢舨才能划入,不然平常的水位是高出4尺.

吃了午餐,大伙回到下龙市继续行程前往河内.在河内,8个女的就开始增加重量行动.咖啡,背包,美食等都在他们的目标里面.

我与KK,SAM就地坐在店前的五脚基学当地人享受悠闲的下午.啤酒不停的灌,道地小吃不停的送入口里.结果两大杯,加上两大瓶的啤酒与猪肉卷,猪肉末与炸香饼让我醉了.

越南煎鱼是河内的传统美食,锅底放入香油(带有黄姜味)与香菜,然后食客自己将鱼肉放入拌炒.然后将香菜,油与鱼肉加上米粉送入口里,它的香气顿时在嘴里化快.最喜爱鱼肉的组织,不软不硬,没有土醒味和鱼骨,是这几天以来吃的最好的鱼. 煎鱼店旁是一间卖越南猪肠粉的小店,大伙看了又开始”收购”.哈哈……

吃完后就直奔河内火车站,踏上前往老街的火车.河内火车站很小,购票处又混乱.建议各位先与代理商安排妥当,不要当场买票.我们乘坐的火车全车厢是外国人,空间比一般的大,睡卧式的车厢虽然舒服,但火车的震动使我不能好好的入眠.

北越掠影- Day 4: 100326- Cao Bang高平, Halong Bay下龙湾

清晨4时,熊猫们半睡半醒之下退了房开始了今天的旅程.我们沿着中越边境的道路前往北越的水上桂林-下龙湾.

下龙市是通往下龙湾的聚散地与海港. 海港里,各国游客人头蜂拥,由小船载往已经预定的帆船.我们登上了红海号后,就先进入自己的房间.由于穿的空间有限,甲板上的房间显得比较狭窄,但是由于我与KK最后拿钥匙,幸运的拿到甲板下的最宽阔的房间.

下龙湾是位于越南东北部,靠近中国边境的一片面积为1,500平方千米的水域.这个海湾中密集地分布着1,969座石灰岩岛屿，矗立在海中，蔚为壮观。每个岛屿都覆盖着浓密的丛林植被。灰岩岛屿被包围在海水的中央,有如从海上冒出的仙山圣境.由于天气受大雾的影响,岛与岛之间层次分明,如一幅挥毫在半空中的山水画卷.

午餐后,我们换舢板划到惊讶洞(Sung Sot). 惊讶洞 是下龙湾最漂亮的石灰岩洞之一。从下船处得登上50级阶梯才到入口。这是个规模十分庞大的石灰岩洞,洞内形形色色的钟乳石,石笋,钟乳石柱,展现了大海几万年来对灰岩岛的鬼斧神雕.而被命名为惊讶洞的主因，是在后室里有根巨大的钟乳石柱,石柱上有个状如男性生殖器的石笋,实在是神似却又显得很突兀.保守的越南人,只好将其称成为惊讶洞.登上惊讶洞的最大收获是洞穴的入口与出口可以看到下龙湾在大大小小帆船的点缀下的无敌海景.

惊讶洞后我们登上另个岛屿的沙滩,登上山上的遥望台,在阴暗的天色下, 帆船华灯初上如天上的星星洒落在下龙湾里.

起初来下龙湾时候会担心在船上能不能睡觉.夜了,漆黑一片的下龙湾在微弱灯光的点缀下是那么的平静,也那么的迷人.在天然屏障的保护下,这儿没有波涛汹涌,取而代之的是乌贼,小鱼在你周围起舞,星星月亮为你吹眠.

北越掠影- Day 3: 100325- BaBe Lake三湖, Ban Gioc Falls板約瀑布, Cao Bang高平

早晨的鸡啼声就是我们的闹钟.浓雾弥漫的三湖使气温更为低,在天然冷气的包围下蹲在屋外的阳台上洗脸并不是那么享受. 屋主以简单的薄煎饼加上山上天然的蜂蜜为早餐,材料虽然简单,但是没有污染或化学物品的原料煮出来的食物是在美味.在三湖的傣族人虽然不是很富有,但他们的生活的确比都市人简单与快乐,每天生活在湖光山色的环境里,人都比较健康.

随后大伙继续旅程前往高平享用午餐.穿越高平市后就是连绵不断的山脉.如果不是越南文的路牌,我们还以为已经到达中国广西了.这儿的原住民是以苗族居多,除了国籍不同外,其他的习俗都与中国一脉相承.

当巴士越来越靠近板越瀑布时,那周围的环境就越来越迷人.高山之间是一大片的稻田,田中小河映照着河边随风飘逸的竹树,水牛与农人更点缀了那秀丽的山川.


板越瀑布（中国境内称德天瀑布，中越边界在瀑布的中线）位于中国与越南边境，宽120米，分三级瀑布，垂直高度60多米，源于广西归春河。德天瀑布与越南板约瀑布相连，雨季两瀑布融为一体，是世界第四大,亚洲第一大跨国瀑布.由于现在是旱季,故所看到的并不是那么壮观,瀑布水量小，瀑布周遍的土石裸露的较多.(建议7直11月是游览,由于进入降雨季节故水量大且水质清,是欣赏瀑布万马奔腾般咆哮的最好时节).旱季除了可以近距离拍照外,我们登上的竹伐也可以在平稳的水面上划得更靠近瀑布,以近距离观赏这儿的一水一石.

有写朋友问说我们坐了8小时的车程才看那么一个瀑布值得吗?我的答案是值得.由于交通不便与之前因为历史事故变为军事禁区,这儿游客都很少,一个若大的瀑布就被我们”占领”了.哈哈.还有路程中所看到的一草一木与民风都是了解这儿人民的途径.

入住高平市酒店后,突然眼前漆黑一片,原来停电了.本来以为酒店怎么那么差,在望出窗外时候才发现是整个城市大停电.原来这小插曲为这北越之旅带来一个特别的体验.

北越掠影- Day 2: 100324-Hanoi河内, BaBe Lake三湖

早餐后,我们开始了七小时的车程前往三湖.虽然路途遥远,但是一路上大伙说说笑笑让时间过得不知不觉.途中,KK发现了期待已久的越南式法国面包.一下车,大伙的相机的确吓倒买面包的大嫂,但是大嫂不久后就习惯了,还主动摆姿势让我们拍照. 越南式法国面包外酥内软,夹以肉粹,肉松,香菜与辣椒浆, 吃起来香气扑鼻.

下午4时,我们到达了三湖的地界.一个”欢迎光临三湖,东南亚自然遗产公园”的路牌让昏昏欲睡的大伙精神起来.到达了渡口,我们改乘舢板沿着没污染的河流迈向今晚过夜的傣家村民宿.河边层层贴贴的山川,农耕,捕鱼与流连在山川周围的牛羊构成美丽画卷.当时还误以为自己在中国桂林呢!当船只穿过山洞后,凉风开始侵袭,原来北方的寒流开始袭击越南了.

下船后,我们沿着山川小径,一边拍照,一边呼吸着新鲜空气迈向傣家村. 在傣家村前是一大片的绿油油的稻田与菜园,后靠巍峨的大山.这里没有吵闹的游客,没有叫卖的小贩,没有灯红酒绿的夜生活.但它有美丽的景色,清新的空气,安静的夜晚,为来自城市的我们带来一个不一样的生活体验.

傣家村民宿虽然简朴,但是他们在卫生,整洁上下了很大工夫.在寒风袭击下在户外刷牙洗脸是前所未有的新体验.晚餐时候留下的美味猪肉是我晚上送酒的小吃.

半夜的三湖下了场大雨,虽然寒风从上下前后左右吹入蚊帐里的我们,但傣家村民宿修护良好,雨水完全没滴到我们.原来这就是导游所说的天然冷气.